While eyeshadow palettes may look like a kaleidoscope packed in a small box, there’s order to even the wildest variety of shades. Most eyeshadow palettes come in three categories of colors: lights, mediums, and dark shades.

Where to Apply Light Colors

Think of the lightest shades as mini spotlights for the grand stage that is your makeup look. Just as our favorite highlighters go on the tops of your features, the light shades should be applied to your brow bone and on the inner corner of your eyes. These are the spots that will reflect max light, giving you brighter eyes and adding depth and interesting contrast to the darker shades that come next.

Where to Apply Medium Colors

Medium shades are the team players of your eyeshadow palettes. They can be used to build and create any makeup look, depending on how dramatic you’d like to be. A natural makeup look relies on medium color shades that are the same color, or slightly darker than your skin tone, applied evenly across your entire lid.

Amp up the dimension by applying the darker medium shades in the creases of your eyes with a smaller, tapered eyeshadow brush. Got shimmery medium shades at your disposal? A tiny swab over the center of your lid is all you need to brighten up the makeup look. Nix the lighter medium shades if you’re going for a smoky eye, and swap in those darker mediums shades instead to create some glam.

Where to Apply Dark Colors

The darkest colors in your eyeshadow palette are your liners and your contour colors. They’ll require the most wrangling, but the payoff is spectacular. Use the darkest colors to outline a V in the crease of your eye for the perfect cut crease that gives the illusion of giant eyes. Or give your trusty liquid eyeliner a break and add the boldest pigmented color along your upper lash line for a fun pop of pigment.

Going for a natural look doesn’t mean forsaking all fun and color. Get the best of both worlds with a palette that combines neutral brown standbys with a few pops of gold and blush glitter shades.